Rabbit Shows and Showing
1. Finding a Show
2. Enter Your Rabbit(s)
3. Get Your Rabbit(s) Ready!
4. Plan Ahead
5. Load Up and Hit the Road
6. Check-In and Unpack
7. Time to Shine! Show Time!
8. Pack-Up and Call it a Day
9. Reading Show Reports
2. Enter Your Rabbit(s)
3. Get Your Rabbit(s) Ready!
4. Plan Ahead
5. Load Up and Hit the Road
6. Check-In and Unpack
7. Time to Shine! Show Time!
8. Pack-Up and Call it a Day
9. Reading Show Reports
1.) Find a Show
There are many ways to go about finding ARBA sanctioned shows. www.arba.net/shows allows you to search for ARBA sanctioned shows. Another great way to find shows is by talking to breeders who are active showers. They can usually tell you when and where they show, or other shows they have heard about you might be interested in going to. Attending a non-sanctioned show may be good actice for those who are new to showing and too nervous to try their hand at an ARBA show. County fairs are also popular to show rabbits at, even if they're not sanctioned. Check with your county fair to see if rabbits are shown and think about entering
some!
Once you find a show you want to attend, there are several things you want to check. How far is it, and are you willing to travel that far? Make sure the date(s) works for you. Most shows are during the weekend, but multiple day shows may run through the week. If a catalog is available, look at it carefully. It will list all the information you'll need. Is the show a "day of entry" or "pre-entry" show? The pre-entry option usually has a reduced entry fee, but must be sent in before a certain date. Be aware of the pre-entry deadlines! If you miss the deadline, you either have to rely on day of entry, or if that option isn't available, you just missed the show! Check what breeds are sanctioned in Open and/or Youth. "Sanctioned" breeds will be discussed later, but don't let it discourage you from showing a breed that isn't sanctioned!
So what is the difference between sanctioned and non-sanctioned shows?
Non-sanctioned shows can be held by just about anyone! The judge is often a local breeder who knows about the different breeds and knows how to show/judge, but they are not officials at it. These shows also often have a pet/grade class for people who want to show their loving pet Thumper. Depending on the judge, DQs may not become a problem and your rabbit will place regardless. I have seen 4 lb Sr. Flemish Giants place (min weight is 13 lbs+) at non-sanctioned shows. They are much more relaxed and more for fun than anything else.
Sanctioned shows are held in accordance with ARBA rules. The judges are licensed and official. DQs are strictly enforced, and the show itself may be fast pace. One day shows often have multiple judges judging at the same time, whereas multiple day shows may have only one judge (often in a county fair setting). Some very large shows, such as state conventions, are multiple day shows with
multiple judges, so it just all depends! GC legs can only be earned at ARBA sanctioned shows.
Scared or nervous about attending an ARBA sanctioned show?
I know I was! We started out with mediocre rabbits, so the chances of doing poorly, or worse, getting DQed was pretty high. We started off by showing at local county fairs, and gradually moved onto bigger and better shows. The first for anything is always scary, and rabbit shows are no different. Speaking from experience, sanctioned shows are not that bad! It may be bumpy at first, but you gain a lot of benefits from attending sanctioned shows:
- Knowing how good your rabbits actually are. Do they stand up to the standard of perfection?
- Expanding your herd. Rabbits shows are great places to do some rabbit shopping! And breeders are there to help you choose what is best for you and find what you're looking for. It's a great way to get new pedigreed bloodlines from reputable breeders.
- Getting your name out there! If you breed rabbits and want to let everyone know you exist, get out there and exist!
- Meeting other breeders. One of the best benefits to going to shows is the people. Get to know the people who show your breed, chances are you'll meet them at other shows too. You can even pick up some interesting tips from people who know what they're talking about. Are you feeding the best food for your breed? Is there anyway to remove stains from white rabbits quick? What cages do they recommend for your breed? What color would do best bred to your rabbit's color? There are so many "useless" things veteran breeders know, so ask questions, make their "useless" knowledge worth something! Even after years of showing, we're still learning things! The other breeders are almost always friendly and willing to help out (there are a few grumpy ones who don't do mornings!).
And don't forget to have fun! Don't expect to win Best in Show on your first try, but if you do, that's great! It's about having fun and enjoying raising rabbits and being in the company of others who share your joy. Work to improve your rabbits, so that one day you too can win Best in Show, but enjoy the ride.
some!
Once you find a show you want to attend, there are several things you want to check. How far is it, and are you willing to travel that far? Make sure the date(s) works for you. Most shows are during the weekend, but multiple day shows may run through the week. If a catalog is available, look at it carefully. It will list all the information you'll need. Is the show a "day of entry" or "pre-entry" show? The pre-entry option usually has a reduced entry fee, but must be sent in before a certain date. Be aware of the pre-entry deadlines! If you miss the deadline, you either have to rely on day of entry, or if that option isn't available, you just missed the show! Check what breeds are sanctioned in Open and/or Youth. "Sanctioned" breeds will be discussed later, but don't let it discourage you from showing a breed that isn't sanctioned!
So what is the difference between sanctioned and non-sanctioned shows?
Non-sanctioned shows can be held by just about anyone! The judge is often a local breeder who knows about the different breeds and knows how to show/judge, but they are not officials at it. These shows also often have a pet/grade class for people who want to show their loving pet Thumper. Depending on the judge, DQs may not become a problem and your rabbit will place regardless. I have seen 4 lb Sr. Flemish Giants place (min weight is 13 lbs+) at non-sanctioned shows. They are much more relaxed and more for fun than anything else.
Sanctioned shows are held in accordance with ARBA rules. The judges are licensed and official. DQs are strictly enforced, and the show itself may be fast pace. One day shows often have multiple judges judging at the same time, whereas multiple day shows may have only one judge (often in a county fair setting). Some very large shows, such as state conventions, are multiple day shows with
multiple judges, so it just all depends! GC legs can only be earned at ARBA sanctioned shows.
Scared or nervous about attending an ARBA sanctioned show?
I know I was! We started out with mediocre rabbits, so the chances of doing poorly, or worse, getting DQed was pretty high. We started off by showing at local county fairs, and gradually moved onto bigger and better shows. The first for anything is always scary, and rabbit shows are no different. Speaking from experience, sanctioned shows are not that bad! It may be bumpy at first, but you gain a lot of benefits from attending sanctioned shows:
- Knowing how good your rabbits actually are. Do they stand up to the standard of perfection?
- Expanding your herd. Rabbits shows are great places to do some rabbit shopping! And breeders are there to help you choose what is best for you and find what you're looking for. It's a great way to get new pedigreed bloodlines from reputable breeders.
- Getting your name out there! If you breed rabbits and want to let everyone know you exist, get out there and exist!
- Meeting other breeders. One of the best benefits to going to shows is the people. Get to know the people who show your breed, chances are you'll meet them at other shows too. You can even pick up some interesting tips from people who know what they're talking about. Are you feeding the best food for your breed? Is there anyway to remove stains from white rabbits quick? What cages do they recommend for your breed? What color would do best bred to your rabbit's color? There are so many "useless" things veteran breeders know, so ask questions, make their "useless" knowledge worth something! Even after years of showing, we're still learning things! The other breeders are almost always friendly and willing to help out (there are a few grumpy ones who don't do mornings!).
And don't forget to have fun! Don't expect to win Best in Show on your first try, but if you do, that's great! It's about having fun and enjoying raising rabbits and being in the company of others who share your joy. Work to improve your rabbits, so that one day you too can win Best in Show, but enjoy the ride.
2.) Enter Your Rabbit(s)
Entering your rabbit(s) can be done in two ways. The first is pre-entry, the second being day of show entry. Some shows only allow one type of entry, others except both. Just check the show catalogue to see which entry method you can use. First, we’ll start off with the differences between pre-entry and day of show, and which one you should use.
Pre-entry vs. Day of show
Suppose the show you are looking at accepts both pre-entry and day of show entries. Which one should you use? Each has advantages and disadvantages. Pre-entry usually has a reduced entry fee, remark cards (if used) will already be filled out for you when you get to the show, check-in is much easier and quicker, show secretaries will be happier, assuming you filled out the papers correctly, and you can have a game plan on which rabbits you need to focus on before the show. Also, if you only have one rabbit, just get this step out of the way! Disadvantages include: possible scratches if an entered rabbit cannot be shown (usually means forfeiting entry fee), and remembering which rabbits you entered, in some cases whether you entered in youth or open. You must also meet a deadline for pre-entries.
Day of show entries are great for a breeder who has a lot of rabbits to choose from, early jrs who may or may not make weight by
show day, or for procrastinators! Disadvantages include: having to fill out paper work at the show, or a day or so before, filling
out your own remark cards (if used) when you get to the show, check-in involves waiting in a line, or several, to get your entries in, and usually an increased entry fee. If you are relying on day of show entries, make sure you get to the show early! You don’t want to miss entering your rabbit(s)! Some shows only accept day of show entries, in which there is no increased entry fee, but even longer lines to stand in.
So which do you choose? It’s up to you! If you have a set show team, use pre-entry. If there is a question of whether a rabbit will qualify or not, day of show may be your best option. ALSO, don’t be afraid to use BOTH methods. Enter your set show team with pre-entry, and if you have questionable rabbits that you do end up wanting to take, day of show enter them. If a show only accepts one type of entries… you don’t have to worry about choosing!
Onto the entry forms!
Every entry form is a little different, but includes the following sections:
1. Open or Youth
2. Show A or Show B (for shows with more than one show)
3. Ear Number/Tattoo
4. Breed
5. Variety
6. Class
7. Sex
8. Fur
9. Entry Fee
1. Open or Youth is pretty simple. To show in Youth you must be 18 year old or younger. Anyone who qualifies for youth can still opt to show in open. It is completely up to the youth. Youth generally has less rabbits entered (although NOT always true), and
you are showing against other youths. You cannot show in both open and youth during the same show, so no double entries.
2. For double, triple, quadruple, etc. shows, you have to specify which show the entries are for. You must fill out a separate form for
each show you plan on participating in. Single shows you will not have to worry about this.
3. Ear Number/Tattoo. This is where you will put the rabbit’s left ear tattoo. Make sure it is correct and all letters and numbers are clear. This is extremely important, so don’t skip or mess this part up!
4. Breed. What breed is your rabbit? Put it here! Breed specific shows may not have this blank as all rabbits being shown in that show are the same breed.
5. Variety. This can be one of the trickiest parts for beginners to fill out. Some breeds show by color, others by varieties. For example, netherland dwarfs show according to color: black, blue, REW, etc. but some of their colors are lumped like otters, where black otters show against blue otters and chocolate otters and lilac otters at the same time. If you have a blue otter dwarf, the variety is simply “otter”. If you have a BEW dwarf, it is “BEW”. Some breeds are very simple, all lops for example are either “broken” or “solid”. It doesn’t matter what color your lop is, just whether it is broken or solid. Angoras are also different, their varieties include “white” and “color”. See WHAT’S MY VARIETY (NOT ACTIVE AT THE MOMENT!) for more information and a quick breed specific cheat sheet.
6. Class. This is the age of your rabbit. Classes include Jr. and Sr. for 4-Class breeds, and Jr., Int (or 6/8), and Sr. for 6-Class breeds. See 4-CLASS VS 6-CLASS (NOT ACTIVE AT THE MOMENT!) to read more about what class your rabbit should be entered as.
7. Sex. Is your rabbit a buck or a doe? Put it here! Often just abbreviated “B” and “D”.
8. Fur. Do you want to enter your rabbit in the fur class? Put a check here if you do! Fur classes are judged based on coat quality alone, does not take body or type into account. Often has an addition fee to enter fur class. Any rabbit shown in the fur class must be entered in the regular show.
9. Entry Fee. This column is optional. Put how much each rabbit will cost to enter here. If you enter the fur class with this rabbit, you will add the entry fee and the fur class fee together. This is just a tool to help you figure out how much your total entry fee will be in the end.
Fill out the exhibitor section of the entry form, double check that all information for the rabbits is correct and double check your entry fee. Send your entry forms where they tell you to for pre-entry, or hand them in to the show secretary for day of entry.
Congratulations, you just entered you rabbit(s)!
Pre-entry vs. Day of show
Suppose the show you are looking at accepts both pre-entry and day of show entries. Which one should you use? Each has advantages and disadvantages. Pre-entry usually has a reduced entry fee, remark cards (if used) will already be filled out for you when you get to the show, check-in is much easier and quicker, show secretaries will be happier, assuming you filled out the papers correctly, and you can have a game plan on which rabbits you need to focus on before the show. Also, if you only have one rabbit, just get this step out of the way! Disadvantages include: possible scratches if an entered rabbit cannot be shown (usually means forfeiting entry fee), and remembering which rabbits you entered, in some cases whether you entered in youth or open. You must also meet a deadline for pre-entries.
Day of show entries are great for a breeder who has a lot of rabbits to choose from, early jrs who may or may not make weight by
show day, or for procrastinators! Disadvantages include: having to fill out paper work at the show, or a day or so before, filling
out your own remark cards (if used) when you get to the show, check-in involves waiting in a line, or several, to get your entries in, and usually an increased entry fee. If you are relying on day of show entries, make sure you get to the show early! You don’t want to miss entering your rabbit(s)! Some shows only accept day of show entries, in which there is no increased entry fee, but even longer lines to stand in.
So which do you choose? It’s up to you! If you have a set show team, use pre-entry. If there is a question of whether a rabbit will qualify or not, day of show may be your best option. ALSO, don’t be afraid to use BOTH methods. Enter your set show team with pre-entry, and if you have questionable rabbits that you do end up wanting to take, day of show enter them. If a show only accepts one type of entries… you don’t have to worry about choosing!
Onto the entry forms!
Every entry form is a little different, but includes the following sections:
1. Open or Youth
2. Show A or Show B (for shows with more than one show)
3. Ear Number/Tattoo
4. Breed
5. Variety
6. Class
7. Sex
8. Fur
9. Entry Fee
1. Open or Youth is pretty simple. To show in Youth you must be 18 year old or younger. Anyone who qualifies for youth can still opt to show in open. It is completely up to the youth. Youth generally has less rabbits entered (although NOT always true), and
you are showing against other youths. You cannot show in both open and youth during the same show, so no double entries.
2. For double, triple, quadruple, etc. shows, you have to specify which show the entries are for. You must fill out a separate form for
each show you plan on participating in. Single shows you will not have to worry about this.
3. Ear Number/Tattoo. This is where you will put the rabbit’s left ear tattoo. Make sure it is correct and all letters and numbers are clear. This is extremely important, so don’t skip or mess this part up!
4. Breed. What breed is your rabbit? Put it here! Breed specific shows may not have this blank as all rabbits being shown in that show are the same breed.
5. Variety. This can be one of the trickiest parts for beginners to fill out. Some breeds show by color, others by varieties. For example, netherland dwarfs show according to color: black, blue, REW, etc. but some of their colors are lumped like otters, where black otters show against blue otters and chocolate otters and lilac otters at the same time. If you have a blue otter dwarf, the variety is simply “otter”. If you have a BEW dwarf, it is “BEW”. Some breeds are very simple, all lops for example are either “broken” or “solid”. It doesn’t matter what color your lop is, just whether it is broken or solid. Angoras are also different, their varieties include “white” and “color”. See WHAT’S MY VARIETY (NOT ACTIVE AT THE MOMENT!) for more information and a quick breed specific cheat sheet.
6. Class. This is the age of your rabbit. Classes include Jr. and Sr. for 4-Class breeds, and Jr., Int (or 6/8), and Sr. for 6-Class breeds. See 4-CLASS VS 6-CLASS (NOT ACTIVE AT THE MOMENT!) to read more about what class your rabbit should be entered as.
7. Sex. Is your rabbit a buck or a doe? Put it here! Often just abbreviated “B” and “D”.
8. Fur. Do you want to enter your rabbit in the fur class? Put a check here if you do! Fur classes are judged based on coat quality alone, does not take body or type into account. Often has an addition fee to enter fur class. Any rabbit shown in the fur class must be entered in the regular show.
9. Entry Fee. This column is optional. Put how much each rabbit will cost to enter here. If you enter the fur class with this rabbit, you will add the entry fee and the fur class fee together. This is just a tool to help you figure out how much your total entry fee will be in the end.
Fill out the exhibitor section of the entry form, double check that all information for the rabbits is correct and double check your entry fee. Send your entry forms where they tell you to for pre-entry, or hand them in to the show secretary for day of entry.
Congratulations, you just entered you rabbit(s)!
3.) Get Your Rabbit(s) Ready!
One of the easiest DQs you can avoid is weight limits. Weigh all your rabbits to make sure they fall within the standard weight and for the appropiate age group.Don’t go over or underweight, as these are quick DQs. Don’t drastically change their diet if they are under or over weight as this may cause more harm than good. Weights do take time to “correct”, and some rabbits will never make
proper weight. Sometimes rabbits that waver on weight limits can be shown during certain times of the year, but not during other times. Knowing your rabbits can help you make quicker decisions on who can go to shows.
Keep their coats as clean as possible days to weeks before the show. If the rabbit has gone through a molt, or is just starting, it probably will not perform as well on the show table. This can be minimized by good grooming or avoid taking molt rabbits. But if you pre-enter a rabbit and it is showing signs of a molt, cross your fingers it holds off and keep an eye on that coat! If the coat breaks and the molt is really heavy, it may save you time just to scratch the rabbit from the show. Wool breeds should begin getting ready for a show a few months before hand. Angoras may take even longer to get in top show condition. Grooming techniques will vary with breed, so read up on the best way to care for your rabbit’s coat. Breeds with normal fur are some of the easiest to care for. White rabbits beware of staining! You don’t want your white rabbit looking yellow for the show! Rex fur can take some time after a molt or having a litter to get back into top condition.
Make sure toenails that are even a little long are cut at least a week before hand, or as early as possible.
Other DQs which can be avoided are broken or chipped teeth, missing toenails, split penis, nasal or ocular (eye) discharge, and sneezing. Any signs of these on your rabbit means no show for them!
proper weight. Sometimes rabbits that waver on weight limits can be shown during certain times of the year, but not during other times. Knowing your rabbits can help you make quicker decisions on who can go to shows.
Keep their coats as clean as possible days to weeks before the show. If the rabbit has gone through a molt, or is just starting, it probably will not perform as well on the show table. This can be minimized by good grooming or avoid taking molt rabbits. But if you pre-enter a rabbit and it is showing signs of a molt, cross your fingers it holds off and keep an eye on that coat! If the coat breaks and the molt is really heavy, it may save you time just to scratch the rabbit from the show. Wool breeds should begin getting ready for a show a few months before hand. Angoras may take even longer to get in top show condition. Grooming techniques will vary with breed, so read up on the best way to care for your rabbit’s coat. Breeds with normal fur are some of the easiest to care for. White rabbits beware of staining! You don’t want your white rabbit looking yellow for the show! Rex fur can take some time after a molt or having a litter to get back into top condition.
Make sure toenails that are even a little long are cut at least a week before hand, or as early as possible.
Other DQs which can be avoided are broken or chipped teeth, missing toenails, split penis, nasal or ocular (eye) discharge, and sneezing. Any signs of these on your rabbit means no show for them!
4.) Plan Ahead
Weather always plays a factor in travel, so look ahead and see what kind of weather is forecasted the show day. If you’re expecting a hurricane or a blizzard, it may be too dangerous to travel to the show. Always plan as if you will run into road work. If you map out your route and find it takes two hours to get there, give yourself at least two and half hours. You never know when you’ll need an emergency pee break!
Get your carriers all set up the night before or sooner. Some breeders assign certain rabbits to certain carriers, others just put rabbits in carriers and it doesn’t matter where they go. If you have different breeds showing, it is a good idea to group them into the same carrier(s). Naturally larger rabbits need larger carriers, so make sure you have enough carriers to safely hold all the rabbits you are taking.
Putting rabbits’ names on the carriers can help in a few ways. Again, you can ensure you have enough carriers to fit all the rabbits, but you can also list the rabbit’s information right there on the carrier. If you bring a helper along that knows little about your rabbits, information tags can help keep them on track. Instead of them remembering “I have an open netherland dwarf otter sr. buck”, they can take the rabbit’s information with them for a quick reference. Also, if you just recently got a rabbit and may not know their ear number, the tags can help you keep track of your rabbits on the show table! Some breeders use tags, others don’t.
It’s just a matter of preference.
Do you have any rabbits you would like to sell? Shows are a great place to advertise rabbits you have for sale, and even meet buyers who are attending the show as well. If you know you would like to increase your herd, make a shopping list before you get to the show. List out the breed, variety, sex, age preference if you have one, and qualities you are looking for (i.e. full hindquarters, broad head, short ears, etc.) and keep the list with you. Don’t get sidetracked by all the rabbits you could have, but have no need
for. Sure, a BEW would be cool to have, but what are you going to use it with? The color and type is perfect, but the rabbit is the wrong sex, is it worth getting? Stick to your shopping list and you won’t end up with extra rabbits you don’t really need right now!
Pack up as much stuff as you can the night before the show and you won’t have as much to worry about in the morning. Remember,
rabbit shows normally start pretty early in the day, and to get there on time and get ready, you’ll be up earlier than you think!
Get your carriers all set up the night before or sooner. Some breeders assign certain rabbits to certain carriers, others just put rabbits in carriers and it doesn’t matter where they go. If you have different breeds showing, it is a good idea to group them into the same carrier(s). Naturally larger rabbits need larger carriers, so make sure you have enough carriers to safely hold all the rabbits you are taking.
Putting rabbits’ names on the carriers can help in a few ways. Again, you can ensure you have enough carriers to fit all the rabbits, but you can also list the rabbit’s information right there on the carrier. If you bring a helper along that knows little about your rabbits, information tags can help keep them on track. Instead of them remembering “I have an open netherland dwarf otter sr. buck”, they can take the rabbit’s information with them for a quick reference. Also, if you just recently got a rabbit and may not know their ear number, the tags can help you keep track of your rabbits on the show table! Some breeders use tags, others don’t.
It’s just a matter of preference.
Do you have any rabbits you would like to sell? Shows are a great place to advertise rabbits you have for sale, and even meet buyers who are attending the show as well. If you know you would like to increase your herd, make a shopping list before you get to the show. List out the breed, variety, sex, age preference if you have one, and qualities you are looking for (i.e. full hindquarters, broad head, short ears, etc.) and keep the list with you. Don’t get sidetracked by all the rabbits you could have, but have no need
for. Sure, a BEW would be cool to have, but what are you going to use it with? The color and type is perfect, but the rabbit is the wrong sex, is it worth getting? Stick to your shopping list and you won’t end up with extra rabbits you don’t really need right now!
Pack up as much stuff as you can the night before the show and you won’t have as much to worry about in the morning. Remember,
rabbit shows normally start pretty early in the day, and to get there on time and get ready, you’ll be up earlier than you think!
5.) Load Up and Hit the Road
Loading up can be as simple as putting one carrier in the car, or as confusing as trying to fit twenty carriers in a car. If you have multiple carriers, it is a good idea to do a run-through the day before to make sure everything will fit.
What do I need to take?
Simply showing rabbits, nothing else:
1. Rabbits - All you are showing. Make sure to check ear numbers and take the right ones!
2. Copy of entry form(s) – in case of any mix ups or to keep yourself straight.
3. Extra carrier holes? – Are you planning on buying or picking up any extra rabbits?
4. Chairs – Don’t expect the show to have chairs available, most don’t.
5. Money
6. Grooming supplies and grooming table if you have one
7. A cart – If you have more than a couple carriers, a cart will become your new best friend!
8. Pens and paper – Always be prepared!
9. Food and water – can be taken, but not all rabbits will take advantage of this. Very important for multiple day shows.
10. Business cards if you have them
11. Aprons and arm covers if you use them
12. Tattoo equipment
13. Directions to the show
Possibly selling rabbits:
14. Any rabbits you plan on selling or have already sold and need picked up
15. Plastic bags for transition feed if any rabbits get sold.
16. Some sort of sign to advertise the rabbits for sale (dry erase board, paper, etc.)
17. Pedigrees
Getting rabbits registered:
18. Pedigrees for rabbits getting registered (a copy of the original works and makes it much quicker)
19. Rabbits to get registered, even if not being shown
20. Your ARBA card
Other things, such as personal entertainment or pain relief for yourself should also be considered. A change in clothes is recommended, unless you don’t mind having a dirty shirt. A first-aid kit can also come in handy, but again is optional.
Packing for shows is more of a trial and error, and each exhibitor will find they rely on certain things (like grooming tables), while others do without. Don’t bring so much stuff that you take up the whole room, and also remember most shows are carry-in
shows… so be prepared to carry anything you want to bring along!
For multiple day shows, you will also want to pack anything you need to stay the night in your hotel (if applicable).
Once you get packed up and ready to go, it’s time to hit the road and get to the show!
What do I need to take?
Simply showing rabbits, nothing else:
1. Rabbits - All you are showing. Make sure to check ear numbers and take the right ones!
2. Copy of entry form(s) – in case of any mix ups or to keep yourself straight.
3. Extra carrier holes? – Are you planning on buying or picking up any extra rabbits?
4. Chairs – Don’t expect the show to have chairs available, most don’t.
5. Money
6. Grooming supplies and grooming table if you have one
7. A cart – If you have more than a couple carriers, a cart will become your new best friend!
8. Pens and paper – Always be prepared!
9. Food and water – can be taken, but not all rabbits will take advantage of this. Very important for multiple day shows.
10. Business cards if you have them
11. Aprons and arm covers if you use them
12. Tattoo equipment
13. Directions to the show
Possibly selling rabbits:
14. Any rabbits you plan on selling or have already sold and need picked up
15. Plastic bags for transition feed if any rabbits get sold.
16. Some sort of sign to advertise the rabbits for sale (dry erase board, paper, etc.)
17. Pedigrees
Getting rabbits registered:
18. Pedigrees for rabbits getting registered (a copy of the original works and makes it much quicker)
19. Rabbits to get registered, even if not being shown
20. Your ARBA card
Other things, such as personal entertainment or pain relief for yourself should also be considered. A change in clothes is recommended, unless you don’t mind having a dirty shirt. A first-aid kit can also come in handy, but again is optional.
Packing for shows is more of a trial and error, and each exhibitor will find they rely on certain things (like grooming tables), while others do without. Don’t bring so much stuff that you take up the whole room, and also remember most shows are carry-in
shows… so be prepared to carry anything you want to bring along!
For multiple day shows, you will also want to pack anything you need to stay the night in your hotel (if applicable).
Once you get packed up and ready to go, it’s time to hit the road and get to the show!
6.) Check-In and Unpack
*Click the image to see it larger*
When you arrive at the show, it is always a good idea to see if the show has a check-in station. Most one day pre-entry shows will have these stations, usually located near the secretary's table. Find your name and take your paper. Look over it carefully. Check that all the ear numbers, sex, age, breed, and color are correct. If there is a correction, see the show secretary and they will help you to fix it if possible. If all the information is correct, you don't have to do anything else with the paper. A lot of showers will use the check-in sheet as a way to record what their rabbits got during the show, until the official show report arrives in the mail. It comes in real handy when you show several breeds or a good number of rabbits as remembering all the places and awards can be tough to do!
If you are opting for day of show entring, make sure your entry forms are filled out and jump in line at the secretary's table. Once you get entered, you may have to fill out remark cards for each of your rabbits. If so, grab some blank remark cards and fill out the tops. Include Exhibitor Number, Exhibitor Name, Show (A or B if there is more than one), Ear Number, Breed, Variety, Sex, and Class. These filled out cards may be placed in breed specific baskets off to one of the side tables, handed back to the show secretary, or somewhere else. If you are unsure what to do, just ask the secretary and they'll tell you what to do!
Check-in sheets will list the show name, sponsoring group, date, exhibitor number and name, and the number entered. For
each rabbit, ear #, coop # (only applies to shows that coop your rabbits), breed, group / variety (color), class, sex, and whether you entered it in the fur class or not (will be marked with a check-mark if you've entered it).
Once you have checked in, get settled in. Or settle in, then check-in! Pick a space in the show room (if it is a carry in show - i.e. you bring the rabbits in carriers and they do not get cooped) that will give you enough space to move around in. If possible, it is a good idea to stack your carriers on top of one another. This saves space and doesn't make you look selfish. Some shows can squeeze people pretty close together, and if you hog more space than you need, you'll probably get some mean looks and angry
neighbors. That being said, if you want to get a good place to set up, get to the show early.
Some exhibitors like to bring tables to set their carriers on top of, while most just set their carriers on the ground. As you look around at all the other "camps", you may see folding lawn chairs, grooming tables, sale boards, equipment for sale, rabbits for sale,
and anything they felt like bringing along. If you're just getting started, a chair is just about all you need bring along with the rabbits (and some money for snacks, rabbits, or equipment you want). Quick grooming tools are also a good idea, but try to get most of your major grooming done before the show.
The next thing you should do is go around to all the judging table and see where your breed(s) are going to be judged and when. If you have more than a couple breeds, it is a good idea to take a piece of paper along and draw a diagram or make a list. Include the order of the breeds at each table as well so you can get a feel for when your breed will be up. Some breeds have a ton of entries and will take longer to get through. Other breeds have very few and are over in no time. The more shows you attend the better feel you will get for which ones are the quick breeds and which ones drag on and on. Also, if you list the breeds that come before you at the table, it can act as a guide. At most shows breeds will be announced when they’re up, and you can easily follow along your list as the other breeds get called up. If you know your breeds and can tell by looking at them, you can also keep track of which breed
your table is on by simply looking!
Once you check-in, unpack, and find out where your breed(s) will be judged… relax! This is the best time to go shopping around the show area, find a breeder to talk to, check out the competition, or just look at all the rabbits!
If you are opting for day of show entring, make sure your entry forms are filled out and jump in line at the secretary's table. Once you get entered, you may have to fill out remark cards for each of your rabbits. If so, grab some blank remark cards and fill out the tops. Include Exhibitor Number, Exhibitor Name, Show (A or B if there is more than one), Ear Number, Breed, Variety, Sex, and Class. These filled out cards may be placed in breed specific baskets off to one of the side tables, handed back to the show secretary, or somewhere else. If you are unsure what to do, just ask the secretary and they'll tell you what to do!
Check-in sheets will list the show name, sponsoring group, date, exhibitor number and name, and the number entered. For
each rabbit, ear #, coop # (only applies to shows that coop your rabbits), breed, group / variety (color), class, sex, and whether you entered it in the fur class or not (will be marked with a check-mark if you've entered it).
Once you have checked in, get settled in. Or settle in, then check-in! Pick a space in the show room (if it is a carry in show - i.e. you bring the rabbits in carriers and they do not get cooped) that will give you enough space to move around in. If possible, it is a good idea to stack your carriers on top of one another. This saves space and doesn't make you look selfish. Some shows can squeeze people pretty close together, and if you hog more space than you need, you'll probably get some mean looks and angry
neighbors. That being said, if you want to get a good place to set up, get to the show early.
Some exhibitors like to bring tables to set their carriers on top of, while most just set their carriers on the ground. As you look around at all the other "camps", you may see folding lawn chairs, grooming tables, sale boards, equipment for sale, rabbits for sale,
and anything they felt like bringing along. If you're just getting started, a chair is just about all you need bring along with the rabbits (and some money for snacks, rabbits, or equipment you want). Quick grooming tools are also a good idea, but try to get most of your major grooming done before the show.
The next thing you should do is go around to all the judging table and see where your breed(s) are going to be judged and when. If you have more than a couple breeds, it is a good idea to take a piece of paper along and draw a diagram or make a list. Include the order of the breeds at each table as well so you can get a feel for when your breed will be up. Some breeds have a ton of entries and will take longer to get through. Other breeds have very few and are over in no time. The more shows you attend the better feel you will get for which ones are the quick breeds and which ones drag on and on. Also, if you list the breeds that come before you at the table, it can act as a guide. At most shows breeds will be announced when they’re up, and you can easily follow along your list as the other breeds get called up. If you know your breeds and can tell by looking at them, you can also keep track of which breed
your table is on by simply looking!
Once you check-in, unpack, and find out where your breed(s) will be judged… relax! This is the best time to go shopping around the show area, find a breeder to talk to, check out the competition, or just look at all the rabbits!
7.) Time to Shine! Show Time!
After getting checked in, settled in, and familiar with the building, it is time to show! When it is finally your breed’s turn to be judged, keep close to the judging table and have your rabbits ready to go. The first time you show will be a little nerve racking. When will it be your turn? How will my rabbit do? Will I get DQed? Where should I stand? It can seem like all eyes are on you, but trust me, there are more people than you think around who are just as lost as you! Youth will show before open, unless the breed has specifically been divided between two judges (may happen with breeds that have a ton of entries).
Listen closely to what variety they are calling up and what class. Class will ALWAYS follow this order:
Sr. Buck
Sr. Doe
(6/8 Buck) \ Only for 6-Class Breeds
(6/8 Doe) /
Jr. Buck
Jr. Doe
When the class before is being judged, get your rabbit out and ready to put on the table. Once they call up the class (during the correct variety) your rabbit is entered in, put your rabbit up on the show table and watch your rabbit be judged. It is recommended that you stand close to the judging table so you can hear comments, placing, and know when to grab your
rabbit! If space is an issue, it may be tough to stand right next to the table. Be courteous to those not showing at the moment and ask to stand by the table, or find a spot as best you can.
If your rabbit places lower than 1st, remove your rabbit from the show table once all remarks/comments have been made. If your rabbit places 1st, it will then STAY on the table to go for BOV (Best of Variety) or BOSV (Best Opposite Sex of Variety). If your rabbit does not win BOV or BOSV, you can remove the rabbit from the table. If they do win BOV or BOSV, they again STAY on the table. At that point, if your rabbit continues to win higher titles, they STAY on the table. If they get beat for a higher title, they can be removed from the table. Once BOB (Best of Breed) and BOSB (Best Opposite Sex of Breed) are chosen, ALL rabbits can be
removed from the table.
What are the “higher titles”?
Your rabbit will start within its class (i.e. Black Sr. Buck) and must follow the paths listed below. Each breed will follow one of the following paths, I have listed three example breeds. From most complex to simplest:
Netherland Dwarf:
1st --> BOV --> BOG --> BOB --> (Best 4-Class*) --> BIS
Havana:
1st --> BOV --> BOB --> (Best 4-Class*) --> BIS
Giant Angora:
1st --> BOB --> (Best 6-Class*) --> BIS
*Note: Some shows do not do Best 4-Class and Best 6-Class, so that step may be skipped. Also, it will depend on whether
your breed belongs to 4-Class or 6-Class as to which they will compete in*
Best 4-Class, Best 6-Class, and BIS will all be judged after all breeds have finished judging.
If you find at any point during judging you have questions about the remarks a judge gave you, ask! Most judges will be very
happy to explain what they mean, especially to new comers. How else will you learn?!
Also, take the remarks as constructive criticism. Do not get offended if a judge doesn’t like your rabbit. Another judge may love
your rabbit. You can ask any breeder and at some point they most likely had a rabbit that represented both extremes within a
short period of time. For example, a tan sr. buck won BIS out of over 360 rabbits, the next week he placed 11th out of 12 tans. Rabbits have good days and bad days just like us! If you consistently hear a remark, like “weak in the shoulders”, look for a mate that will help in correcting that in the kits. Don’t pair two rabbits that are both weak in the shoulders or else the kits will turn out with weak shoulders. Showing rabbits is one of the best ways to get professional opinions on your rabbits, and also a great way to see how your rabbits stand up to other breeder’s rabbits.
Listen closely to what variety they are calling up and what class. Class will ALWAYS follow this order:
Sr. Buck
Sr. Doe
(6/8 Buck) \ Only for 6-Class Breeds
(6/8 Doe) /
Jr. Buck
Jr. Doe
When the class before is being judged, get your rabbit out and ready to put on the table. Once they call up the class (during the correct variety) your rabbit is entered in, put your rabbit up on the show table and watch your rabbit be judged. It is recommended that you stand close to the judging table so you can hear comments, placing, and know when to grab your
rabbit! If space is an issue, it may be tough to stand right next to the table. Be courteous to those not showing at the moment and ask to stand by the table, or find a spot as best you can.
If your rabbit places lower than 1st, remove your rabbit from the show table once all remarks/comments have been made. If your rabbit places 1st, it will then STAY on the table to go for BOV (Best of Variety) or BOSV (Best Opposite Sex of Variety). If your rabbit does not win BOV or BOSV, you can remove the rabbit from the table. If they do win BOV or BOSV, they again STAY on the table. At that point, if your rabbit continues to win higher titles, they STAY on the table. If they get beat for a higher title, they can be removed from the table. Once BOB (Best of Breed) and BOSB (Best Opposite Sex of Breed) are chosen, ALL rabbits can be
removed from the table.
What are the “higher titles”?
Your rabbit will start within its class (i.e. Black Sr. Buck) and must follow the paths listed below. Each breed will follow one of the following paths, I have listed three example breeds. From most complex to simplest:
Netherland Dwarf:
1st --> BOV --> BOG --> BOB --> (Best 4-Class*) --> BIS
Havana:
1st --> BOV --> BOB --> (Best 4-Class*) --> BIS
Giant Angora:
1st --> BOB --> (Best 6-Class*) --> BIS
*Note: Some shows do not do Best 4-Class and Best 6-Class, so that step may be skipped. Also, it will depend on whether
your breed belongs to 4-Class or 6-Class as to which they will compete in*
Best 4-Class, Best 6-Class, and BIS will all be judged after all breeds have finished judging.
If you find at any point during judging you have questions about the remarks a judge gave you, ask! Most judges will be very
happy to explain what they mean, especially to new comers. How else will you learn?!
Also, take the remarks as constructive criticism. Do not get offended if a judge doesn’t like your rabbit. Another judge may love
your rabbit. You can ask any breeder and at some point they most likely had a rabbit that represented both extremes within a
short period of time. For example, a tan sr. buck won BIS out of over 360 rabbits, the next week he placed 11th out of 12 tans. Rabbits have good days and bad days just like us! If you consistently hear a remark, like “weak in the shoulders”, look for a mate that will help in correcting that in the kits. Don’t pair two rabbits that are both weak in the shoulders or else the kits will turn out with weak shoulders. Showing rabbits is one of the best ways to get professional opinions on your rabbits, and also a great way to see how your rabbits stand up to other breeder’s rabbits.
8.) Pack-Up and Call it a Day
After all your rabbits have finished their final judging, whether that is by breed or the Best In Show table, you are ready to call it a day. Don’t forget to pick up any ribbons you won or trophies/prizes for BOB or BOSB (sometimes BOV and BOSV or BOG and BOSG will receive awards too, mostly in breed specific shows). Pack everybody back up in their carriers and load up the car. Be mindful of the show committee and other exhibitors; don’t leave a huge mess when you leave! Pick up any garbage or hair balls you have and leave your area clean. Once you’re packed and ready to go, head home and have a safe trip! Unpack everyone at home and make sure there is plenty of fresh water available for them, even if you supplied them with water bottles at the show.
9.) Reading Show Reports
*Click the image to see it larger*
Show reports come in the mail 2 weeks or more after the show is complete. Not all show reports look the same! The one shown is only one of many versions! Show reports are great because they show how many points each rabbit earned. Points really only matter for sweepstakes, but they are also interesting just to see how many points you can rack up! We use our points to judge which breed(s) we are having the most success with and which breeds we are weak in (the more points a breed gets, the better we are doing with them!).
Also listed on a show report are: Show name, sponsoring club, date of the show, exhibitor number and info, and show secretary name and info. Each breed is often separated by a bold heading (i.e Mini Lop). Any rabbit that you had shown that belonged to that breed will appear under the correct heading. Ear #, color, class, and sex are listed so you can identify which rabbit is which.
# in class, # of exhibitors, and placings are listed so you can see what kind of competition you were up against at the time and how you did. It is always a good idea to hold onto your show reports. If you have past reports, you can see how your rabbit(s) preform
at different shows, under certain judges, at certain ages, and at different times of the year.
Points can be displayed in various ways. This specific show report shows two different types of points being earned: specialty and display. Specialty points will increase if any special titles were won (i.e BOB), but only if there was competition. As seen under the "Rex", even though the chinchilla got BOV, there were no other chinchillas to be judged against, so no additional points were given. In the "Mini Lop", even though the broken received both BOV and BOB, BOB is the only title that earned that rabbit additional points because it included the competition from the BOV category too (so there were 13 mini lops all together shown, and 8 of those 13 were beaten at the Variety level). The more competition and the better you place, the more points you earn. Display points, on the other hand, only award points for placing in the class. The "Mini Lop" received 24 points for winning 1/4 in the Broken Sr. Doe class. No other points are awarded outside of the class placing. Point systems are confusing, so it is just easiest to look on the show report to see how many points your rabbit(s) earn!
There is also a separate column for "Leg". If a check-mark is present in this column, that indicates a GC leg was earned. In the example shown, the Mini Lop has earned a leg. You will notice the check-mark is shown beside the BOV win. Leg marks will be shown were the leg was first won. Because there was enough rabbits and exhibitors in the variety, a leg was earned as soon as she got BOV. Getting BOB was an added bonus, but she didn't need to win BOB to earn that specific leg.
Finally, the judge that judged the breed at that specific show is listed along with their judge number. This is always good to look at as it tells you how well your rabbits did under that judge. Some judges absolutely love a specific rabbit, while another judge
can absolutely hate that same rabbit. For example, the Mini Lop above who won BOB often gets 7/7 under different judges. We
have had a rabbit win Best In Show over 360+ rabbits, and the next weekend have that same rabbit get 11/12. Judges are important to look at. Most show catalogs will list what judges are going to be there, so if a certain judge is going to be there that loves your rabbits, cross your fingers and hope they judge your breed!
Also listed on a show report are: Show name, sponsoring club, date of the show, exhibitor number and info, and show secretary name and info. Each breed is often separated by a bold heading (i.e Mini Lop). Any rabbit that you had shown that belonged to that breed will appear under the correct heading. Ear #, color, class, and sex are listed so you can identify which rabbit is which.
# in class, # of exhibitors, and placings are listed so you can see what kind of competition you were up against at the time and how you did. It is always a good idea to hold onto your show reports. If you have past reports, you can see how your rabbit(s) preform
at different shows, under certain judges, at certain ages, and at different times of the year.
Points can be displayed in various ways. This specific show report shows two different types of points being earned: specialty and display. Specialty points will increase if any special titles were won (i.e BOB), but only if there was competition. As seen under the "Rex", even though the chinchilla got BOV, there were no other chinchillas to be judged against, so no additional points were given. In the "Mini Lop", even though the broken received both BOV and BOB, BOB is the only title that earned that rabbit additional points because it included the competition from the BOV category too (so there were 13 mini lops all together shown, and 8 of those 13 were beaten at the Variety level). The more competition and the better you place, the more points you earn. Display points, on the other hand, only award points for placing in the class. The "Mini Lop" received 24 points for winning 1/4 in the Broken Sr. Doe class. No other points are awarded outside of the class placing. Point systems are confusing, so it is just easiest to look on the show report to see how many points your rabbit(s) earn!
There is also a separate column for "Leg". If a check-mark is present in this column, that indicates a GC leg was earned. In the example shown, the Mini Lop has earned a leg. You will notice the check-mark is shown beside the BOV win. Leg marks will be shown were the leg was first won. Because there was enough rabbits and exhibitors in the variety, a leg was earned as soon as she got BOV. Getting BOB was an added bonus, but she didn't need to win BOB to earn that specific leg.
Finally, the judge that judged the breed at that specific show is listed along with their judge number. This is always good to look at as it tells you how well your rabbits did under that judge. Some judges absolutely love a specific rabbit, while another judge
can absolutely hate that same rabbit. For example, the Mini Lop above who won BOB often gets 7/7 under different judges. We
have had a rabbit win Best In Show over 360+ rabbits, and the next weekend have that same rabbit get 11/12. Judges are important to look at. Most show catalogs will list what judges are going to be there, so if a certain judge is going to be there that loves your rabbits, cross your fingers and hope they judge your breed!